Hot and cold mezze should dominate the spread, beginning with the tahini-forward hummus; it’s served plain or covered with sauteed beef and pine nuts. A mellow smokiness winds through smooth baba ghannouj. I want to dip everything — pita, the complimentary pickles, forkfuls of grilled chicken, anything fried — into labneh, the Lebanese style of yogurt drained to a satisfying density and dressed with olive oil, sliced cucumbers and mint. (My Lebanese friends, it should be said, would advise me to rein it in and eat labneh mostly with bread and vegetables.)